The instructions below apply to most Genesis controllers.


TRACK POLARITY:  THIS CONTROLLER IS ONLY FOR POSITIVE POLARITY TRACKS! Positive polarity (gate) means an ohmmeter shows a "+" when measured between the tracks power terminal and the brake terminal  (red ohmmeter probe on power terminal). Negative polarity (gate) will show a "-" when measured this way. The large majority of tracks today are positive.

HOOK UP: Transistor controllers are sensitive to the two different types of track polarities in use today. If you do not know your tracks polarity hook up the black and white clips only (not red) of your controller to the lane. Without pulling the trigger touch cars braid to the track with wheels in the air. If car does not get power then you are on correct polarity track. Hook up red clip and race. If car gets power then you are on the wrong polarity track. You can not use this controller on that track!

DIODE PROTECTION: a diode on the heatsink protects the transistor by sending power to lane if you hook up to a different polarity track or reverse the black and white clips by accident. If car takes off at full speed without touching trigger, unhook controller immediately to avoid car damage, you did something wrong! 

AVOID CONTROLLER DAMAGE: If you are running the controller and the bands are not giving power or the controller is acting erratically then STOP! Either there is a short on your lane or on your car. Stopping and finding the problem may avoid any controller damage. Keep the heatsink away from track terminals!  Hook the heatsink on track edge first and use two hands to hook up the alligator clips to avoid sparking wrong terminals during hook up! No controller is protected against every different incorrect hook up or mild short! Take your time!

SENSITIVITY: Rotate knob to find best sensitivity setting for your track and car type. With car on track set knob so car gets enough power to move. This is lowest setting you can use for that type car without having first band dead (no power). If you have to rotate the knob much above the zero setting just to get the car to move then you should probably get a more sensitive network to get the proper sensitivity range. If the controller feels too sensitive when knob is set on zero then you may need a slower response network to get the correct sensitivity range.

OPTIONAL NETWORKS: see the enclosed cut sheet for our full line of optional networks to tune the controller to run any car from 1/32 homeset to the fastest G7 motor.

BRAKING: Rotate knob for desired braking. NOTE: The DD271 Pro brake rheostats off position is a true off, the DD270 economy brake rheostat will still show minimal brakes at off position.

Extreme Stopping Power brake relay: the E.S.P. relay is activated by the black slide switch on the rear edge of the circuit board. When turned on the E.S.P. relay (blue relay on the heatsink module) will bypass the brake rheostat and the fuse for the best braking possible. Turn off the E.S.P. to return to normal brake rheostat function. The E.S.P. relay is activated by the dead band on the circuit board before the trigger reaches the normal brake stop for improved braking response.

E.S.P. RELAY TIPS: If you are using the E.S.P. function I recommend you keep the brake rheostat in the full brake position. The reason is that the brake relay is protected from turning on in case you hook up incorrectly, this will divert the short circuit to the normal brake rheostat and fuse circuit. Leaving the brake at full will allow the fuse to blow quickly and prevent any damage to the brake rheostat.

E.S.P. OPTION: If you add our DD228-15 ($12.50) momentary bypass switch to the controller you can choose to have full brakes in any tight corner. Release the switch when you want reduced braking on the wider turns for faster lap times.

E.S.P. PARTY TRICKS: If you want to impress your friends or test the E.S.P. relay performance set your brake rheostat to low or off and then compare the braking with the switch on versus off.

BLAST FULL POWER RELAY: the 40 amp relay turns on when the trigger hits the full power contact and travels over our high strand 10 ga. wire. Don’t be fooled by other manufacturers who use 12 ga. stereo wire! The brake clip must be hooked up to the track for relay operation or the transistor will run hot and you will not have full power to the car.

"E"LECTRONIC RESET BRAKE AND POWER FUSE:  Fuse will blow and disconnect brake or power circuits on direct shorts. Once hook up is corrected the reset fuse automatically starts working again! No need to replace, ever!



FANATIC POT ADJUSTMENTS: 1/24 racers must adjust all blue Fanatic pots to halfway as a starting point!!! This range will be a good starting point to run a typical 16d motor.  The Fanatic pots allow this controller to run anything from 1/32 to a G7 motor. The faster the motor the more sensitive the Fanatic pots range needs to be.  You should adjust the Fanatic pots so when the main sensitivity knob is set to zero the car gets enough power to move.

FANATIC POT ADJUSTMENT TIPS: Do not be afraid to adjust the Fanatic pots! Pots are labeled from #1 (first band) to #15 on rear of circuit board. (The last two bands are fixed bands without any adjustments) Pots are factory set to the slowest “notch” embossed on the pots face which is good for 1/32 cars. Pots pointer has an arrow that shows pointer direction. Turn pot with screwdriver clockwise to increase that bands sensitivity or counter clockwise to reduce sensitivity (direction is marked on rear of circuit board). The Fanatic pots control the overall resistance for our transistor circuit. The Fanatic pots are in series and have a value of 20 ohms each for a total of 300 ohms when they are all set to slow. (Band #16 has a fixed resistance of 10 ohms for a total of 310 ohms) Each notch on the face of the blue pot is 2 ohms. Adjusting pot #10 will slow that bands response as well as slowing all the pots that are before it (#1 to #9).  It is best to get the overall resistance in the correct range first by turning all the pots to the same position. Then you can fine tune the power curve to your liking after that.

1/24 motors: a good starting point for Falcon and 16d type motors is 150 ohms (all pots halfway), but can range from 130 to about 180 ohms total. G12 motors need about 100 ohms to 150 ohms total resistance. G15 motors need about 80 to 120 ohms. G27 and G7 ohms need about 50 to 70 ohms. From the total resistance needed you can figure out how much resistance you need for each of the 15 bands.

1/32 motors: while the factory setting of 310 ohms may work for you situation I recommend turning all the pot clockwise one notch (2 ohms each for a total of 280 ohms) to start. From there you can increase or decrease the sensitivity as needed.

Dual Polarity: To change to negative polarity loosen the blue terminals on the heatsink and reverse the positions of the wires. The terminals are marked with an "+" and an "-" and their positions are also engraved on the relay. When wired for negative polarity the "+" terminal will be above the "=" position and the "-" terminal will be above the "+" position marked on the relay.